Training Young Pear Trees as Espaliers

Espalier training is one of the most rewarding ways to grow pears in a small garden. Against a sunny wall, a well-trained pear espalier saves space, looks handsome, and crops generously. The method suits pears because most varieties bear fruit on short spurs, and summer pruning keeps growth tidy. With a little patience and some cedar garden craft for the framework, you can turn a young whip into a productive, elegant shape.

Why pears suit the espalier treatment

An espalier is a tree trained flat against a wall or fence, with a permanent framework of horizontal arms. Pears are ideal because they naturally form fruiting spurs on older wood. A wall gives them the shelter and warmth they need, especially in cooler parts of the UK, where early blossom can be damaged by frost. The retained heat also helps fruit ripen.

Pears on Quince rootstocks are moderate in vigour, which makes them manageable. You will need a south- or west-facing wall for best results. East-facing walls can work but carry more risk of frost damage to flowers. A cedar trellis or cedar posts make a durable framework; cedar’s natural oils resist rot, so it lasts for years without chemical treatment.

• Saves space: one tree occupies only a few metres of wall.
• Improves ripening: reflected warmth suits pears.
• Easy harvesting: fruit is at picking height.
• Long-lived: a well-trained espalier can crop for decades.

Choosing a variety and rootstock

Not all pears are suitable. Choose a spur-bearing variety, which produces fruit on short, stubby spurs along the branches. Good choices include Conference, Concorde, Doyenne du Comice, and Williams’ Bon Chrétien. Avoid tip-bearing varieties, which fruit at the ends of long shoots and are awkward to train flat.

Rootstock matters. Quince A is the usual choice for a wall-trained espalier, giving a tree of moderate vigour that will fill a 3–4 metre span. Quince C is more dwarfing and suits a smaller wall, about 2.5–3 metres. Most pears need a pollination partner, so check compatibility before buying, or choose a self-fertile variety such as Conference if space is tight.

Planting and the first year’s training

Plant a bare-root maiden in winter, between November and March, when the soil is workable. Position the trunk 30–40 cm from the wall, with the roots spread out. Improve the soil with well-rotted compost and a handful of bone meal. Firm gently, water well, and mulch with bark or compost, keeping it clear of the trunk.

Cut the maiden back to about 40 cm above ground level, just above a healthy bud. This encourages strong shoots. During the first summer, select the two strongest shoots and train them horizontally, one left and one right, along a cane tied to the bottom wire. Remove all other shoots. Tie with soft twine in a figure-of-eight to prevent rubbing.

Set up your wires before planting: three or four galvanised wires, 35–45 cm apart, tensioned between sturdy posts. Cedar posts are excellent here. If you enjoy cedar garden craft, you can make your own trellis or tie-bars from cedar offcuts; they look good and last.

Summer pruning: the key to spurs and fruit

Summer pruning is essential. It restricts vigour and encourages the formation of fruiting spurs. In late June or July, cut back all new side shoots that grow from the main arms to three or four leaves above the basal cluster of leaves. In late August or early September, shorten these same shoots again to one or two leaves. This directs the tree’s energy into spurs rather than long, leafy growth.

At the same time, tie in the extension growth of the main arms along the wires. Do not prune the main arms during summer unless they have reached their allotted space. Never winter prune a young espalier pear except to remove broken or diseased wood. Winter pruning encourages vigorous growth and removes the very spurs that carry next year’s fruit.

• June–July: cut side shoots to 3–4 leaves.
• Late August–September: cut again to 1–2 leaves.
• Tie in main arms as they extend.
• Remove any shoots growing towards or away from the wall.

Building later tiers and long-term care

To create a second tier, choose a strong shoot from the trunk just below the first tier in spring. Train it vertically to the next wire, then bend it horizontally in late summer. Repeat on the other side. Add a new tier each year until you have three or four, which usually takes four to six years.

Feed in spring with a balanced fertiliser, then switch to a high-potassium feed in summer to support fruit. Water young trees in dry spells, as walls can be very dry. Thin fruitlets in June to one per cluster, spaced 10–15 cm apart. Watch for aphids, pear rust, and scab; good air circulation from summer pruning helps prevent disease.

Harvest when the fruit is mature but still firm; most pears ripen off the tree. With a little cedar garden craft for the supports and steady summer pruning, your espalier will become a handsome, generous feature of the garden for many years.