Cedar crates allow airflow and absorb excess moisture. Layer apples with straw, keep in a cool shed, and inspect regularly for spoilage.
Anyone who has kept apples through a British winter knows the heartbreak of pulling a tray out in February to find a soft, brown heap. The fruit itself is rarely to blame. More often the failure is one of storage: too little air, too much trapped moisture, and no easy way to spot a bad apple before it takes its neighbours with it. This is where a slatted cedar crate earns its place.
Cedar has three qualities that matter here. First, its oil-rich timber resists rot and fungal growth far better than softwood or plywood, so the crate does not turn musty in a damp shed. Second, the wood is hygroscopic — it absorbs excess moisture from the air around the fruit when conditions are wet, and releases it again when the shed dries out. Third, cedar takes nails and screws well without splitting and can be built with slatted sides, leaving gaps of 6–8mm for air to move freely.
Cardboard collapses and holds damp. Sealed plastic crates prevent airflow entirely. A well-made cedar crate, used properly, will serve you for twenty years or more.
Storage will never improve an apple. It can only delay decline, so be ruthless at the sorting stage.
Pick on a dry day, ideally when the fruit comes away with a gentle twist and the stalk separates cleanly. Apples picked in the rain store badly.
A good crate is roughly 40–50cm long, 30cm wide and 15–20cm deep — small enough to lift when full, large enough to hold a useful quantity. Sand the internal edges so nothing rubs.
Line the base with a 3cm layer of clean, dry barley or wheat straw. Barley straw is the traditional choice because its hollow stems spring back and allow air to circulate rather than matting down. Avoid hay, which carries mould and seed.
Sit the apples in a single layer, not touching, with the stalk end downwards. This stops the stalk from puncturing the apple beside it, and leaves the blossom end uppermost where you can inspect it at a glance. Cover with another thin layer of straw, then add a second layer of fruit if the crate is deep enough. Finish with a straw cap.
Never stack crates more than three high, and never seal them. Slatted sides plus straw gives you the gentle, steady airflow that keeps fruit fresh.
Position matters more than most growers realise. Aim for:
Keep the crates off a concrete floor — stand them on battens or a wooden pallet so damp cannot creep upward. Finally, keep apples well away from potatoes, onions, paint tins and anything with a strong smell. Apples readily absorb taints, and a shed that smells of creosote will produce fruit that tastes of it.
Check every crate weekly for the first month, then fortnightly until spring. Lift each apple, feel for soft spots, and look at the blossom end for the first signs of brown rot. Remove anything suspect at once — wrap it and put it in the bin, not the compost heap beside the shed.
If you find a patch of mould on the straw, replace that section. If the skins feel clammy, slide the crates apart a little to increase airflow. If they feel dry and the fruit is starting to wrinkle, mist the shed floor rather than the fruit.
Used well, a set of cedar crates will carry your harvest cleanly through to March, and you will taste the difference in every pie, crumble and lunchbox apple along the way.
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8/2/2024
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